June in Lisbon
Lisbon was transformed in the month of June from the usual well known tourist town to a city of traditions and celebrations that are truly Portuguese. Seven years ago, I stumbled upon Lisbon as a transient stop en route to Paris—a city that was merely a layover in my itinerary. I was magically drawn towards it for its simplicity, beauty, culture. Now I live here, something I couldn't have anticipated during that first accidental encounter.
As I sit at Café Mendo here in Anjos/Arrorios , a neighborhood of Lisbon little tucked away from tourist centers filled with dozens of affordable cafes, groceries, restaurants and every other amenity and with a proper mix of expats, immigrants (yes there is a difference) and locals, I can't help but smile at how much has changed since that initial visit eight years ago —mostly my interaction with this city. It reminds me of the Cobblers lane (near Second City) in Chicago's downtown in early 2000 when I first lived there first - a mixing pot of all new and old mostly single in the early stages of gentrifications. Now it has become all million dollar town houses and condos with expensive street fairs where you pay 10 dollars for beer. But I won't digress. I am an immigrant for al my life and comparing and finding common threads is my minds's business. You will see my other city references only anecdotally just to highlight the comparison and scale and not to point out any surplus or deficiency in any city.
This is about Lisbon and especially about Lisbonites, and how they party in the month of June.
I planted my roots in Lisbon in early Springs on permanent basis and was astounded that the city is never without tourists. We got lucky with our lovely landlady Ana and her beautifully decorated apartment located close to the castle - privately tucked access controlled for traffic yet we have direct exposure to what happens in the town each day sitting in our living room. As a foreigner, I needed that in my first year just so I don't feel secluded.
In the past six months, what started as tourist curiosity eight years ago blossomed into something deeper: a genuine connection to this remarkable city and its people. The cobblestones that once felt foreign beneath my feet are still exotic now guide me home. The conversations that began and ended with "Obrigado" and tourist maps have evolved into comfortable exchanges with familiar faces.
Now I have a barber from Zeze, who doesn't speak English (imagine that) I have connected with, a baker specialized in masa madre (Sour dough bread). We have started getting less intimidated with the idea of going to the Grocery stores, and have settled to the idea of shopping more frequently and on the feet (no cars).
Although this integration was enough to begin with, it wasn't enough. With my very short exposure to Goa during my childhood Summers, I was really looking forward to experiencing the carnivals and celebrations with he same enthusiasm as in we used to wait for Summer street festivals in Chicago.
And then came June. I wasn't ready for this.
In the early days of June city slowly started getting ready by putting up some decorations. First the touristy restaurants started setting up street side joints, bars, portable beer stations, some playing loud music to attract passing tourists to get in. But I had no idea what was going to descend the next two to three weeks. Lisbon folks say celebrations, they mean it.
The intensity of celebrations starts climbing by each passing day and then the first long weekend arrives. Graca, AlFama, Castello, these are just examples.
These neighborhoods carry centuries of history in their cobblestones. Alfama, the oldest district in Lisbon, survived the devastating 1755 earthquake that leveled much of the city. Its maze of narrow streets and fado houses still echo with the soulful music that emerged from these very alleys. Castelo, crowned by the medieval São Jorge Castle, offers panoramic views that have watched over the Tagus River since the 11th century. Graça, perched on one of Lisbon's seven hills, has been home to churches and convents since the 13th century, creating a spiritual anchor for the community that endures today.
Each neighborhood starts getting ready. Streets get decorated by hanging red white green colorful paper garlands, streets and sidewalks get cleaned, households start erecting wooden stools in the narrow alleys in Aflame to set up stalls for makeshift restaurants and alchohol stations. This is some serious carpentry that is erected on completely uneven narrow cobblestone alleys of Aflama on wish dozens of people can sit and eat dinners for next few weeks.
Travel tip.
Watching the getting ready part of the city is magical. Reminded me of Oixa Sintorini in early March before the tourist season, when locals are giving final touches to the white washed walls on the astounding backdrop of Agean sea. My secret to enjoy beautiful places in the world is to visit them in Way Off shoulder months and avoid the weekends and European holidays. We had entire Oiax and blue domes ourselves in the early weeks of March.
So getting back to Lisbon.
At some point during the first or second Friday of the month the St. Anthony festival and sardines festival starts off. It brings out the true spirit of Portuguese culture. There is family celebrations which starts from about 4 PM till 9 PM. food, music and dance and there is after party and then there is after after party till 4 in the morning.
Twenty-seven neighborhoods (bairros) participate in a month-long celebration of dance, music, and community that culminates in a spectacular parade.
We're fortunate to live at the intersection of three historic neighborhoods: Graça, Castelo, and Alfama. This reminded me of my year long stay at the Club quarters across Radio City in Midtown Manhattan in 2014 that of all Christmas and New years festival. I had a front row seat to the setting up the tree, the skating ring, the shows and all the good and bad that came along with it from the comforts of my room.
Where we stayed was the epicenter of the festivities, and while it can sometimes feel over-the-top, it's impossible not to get swept up in the energy. But the main thing I was so elated was to see was that I got to see the real vibrant Portuguese culture from up and close and there was almost lack of tourists during all these days.
Alfama's traditional approach to the festival particularly captured my heart. Neighbors transform narrow cobblestone alleys into makeshift wooden patios, decorated with traditional colors and ornaments. They set up grills for fish and meat, Superbock beer flows freely, and everyone—young and old—comes together to dance to live music. As the night progresses, the energy shifts to DJ sets, and the young crowd keeps the party going until dawn.
The celebration peaks on June 12th with the grand parade downtown, where neighborhoods compete with elaborate costumes and choreographed dances. The following day brings the solemn St. Anthony procession, a spiritual journey from church to church that adds depth and meaning to the festivities.
What it meant for me.
Living in Lisbon has fundamentally changed my relationship with daily life. At 55, after decades in corporate America, I'm discovering something I'd forgotten existed: the simple joy of being present and my capacity to make a change.
I lived in Chicago for 20 years as an immigrant and I love that city. Someday I will write my story about it but my memories of its initial days have faded. With age, I became less adventurous, cautious and suburban. I was stuck in the grind like the most.
My first summer in Lisbon brought my early days of enthusiasm back. I felt alive. Now I wake up, open the window curtains and see people from all around the world coming to see this city where I live and it fills my heart very proud and joyful. I feel very lucky.
Last word
Any honest conversation about Lisbon must acknowledge its complex social fabric. This is a city of layers: locals who feel displaced by rapid touristification, immigrants from South Asia and Brazil working in the shadows while hoping for their piece of the European dream, tourists from every corner of the globe, and new expats from wealthier countries like us.
It's a renaissance city in the truest sense—things are happening here, constantly. There's a cultural richness and contentment that permeates daily life. The Portuguese have mastered something many of us are still learning: how to prioritize family and joy over money and accumulation.
Finding the Real Lisbon
The secret to falling in love with Lisbon is simple: step outside the tourist map. Just a few blocks away from the crowds, you'll discover the real city—one where neighbors know each other, where traditions run deep, and where life unfolds at a more human pace.
This cultured society has taught me about contentment in ways I never expected. There's wisdom in their approach to life, an understanding that happiness doesn't come from having more, but from appreciating what surrounds you every day. Manuel, our cab driver, embodies this philosophy perfectly. He's not building a transportation empire or optimizing for maximum efficiency—he's building relationships, one conversation at a time.
The Portuguese concept of "saudade"—that bittersweet longing for something that might never return—suddenly makes sense when you're 55 and looking back at decades of chasing things that ultimately didn't matter. But here's the beautiful irony: in a city steeped in saudade, I've found not longing, but presence. Not what was or might be, but what is.
When the tired tourists return to their Airbnbs in the evening, we step out for our walks. The ambiance feels timeless, as if we've slipped into another era entirely. In these moments, walking through neighborhoods where life happens authentically, I understand why we keep coming back.
Lisbon isn't just a place we visit anymore—it's becoming home. And perhaps more importantly, it's teaching me how to be home within myself again.
What started as expat adventures has evolved into something deeper: a love affair with a city that rewards those willing to look beyond its beautiful surface to discover the vibrant community beneath.